Thursday, October 6, 2016
Iconic plant #1
"I've been bit!" Nina McCart exclaimed. I whirled around, but she was laughing. "I thought it was a snake, but look." She pointed at her heel. A devil's claw clasped her ankle.
McCart and 15 other members of the 2008 class of the Llano Estacado chapter of the Texas Master Naturalists had just seen a young rattlesnake. The little rattler had "scooched" a divot out of the soft humus-laded soil under a hackberry in a draw on a Midland County ranch. The foot-long "Cascabelito" endured the group's 10-minute inspection by tightening its coiled body into a disc an inch smaller. It had not even stuck its tongue out during its effort to be "invisible."
McCart stood on one leg like a crane and pried the devil's claw from her shoe and then held up for everyone's inspection. "We are looking at a Pleistocene anachronism," I stated. "Huh?" answered a half-dozen people (the response I wanted). "Some scientists think that Proboscidea parviflora developed its large clasping seedpods during the Pleistocene when the oversized megafauna dominated the landscape. The hooks of the seedpods would have readily fit on the ankle of a giant sloth or the huge bison antiguus."
Leslie Harman mentioned that she had known craftspeople that created charming knickknacks out of the "ram's horn" shaped seedpod. I nodded and mentioned that a local craftsperson had given the Sibley Nature Center a deer figure made from seedpod, its head and antlers made from the plant. On a whim I once hung a dead plant from the ceiling of my shade house like a mobile. I continued, "The green pods and dried pods were important items in the Southwestern Indian cultures. In fact, if you buy a basket from any Indian in the region, the black in the basket is made from the "unicorn plant" seed pods, so it is purposefully grown in the gardens of every pueblo that still produces baskets."
"Before the green seedpod splits into the devil's claw, it looks somewhat like a curved okra pod. The green fruit is mucilaginous, like okra, and the large seeds have a nutty flavor. The seeds are rich in oil and protein. A tablespoonful is found in each pod, so an acre of plants can provide a substantial amount of food value. Some modern Puebloans (and other southwesterners) pickle the small pods like is done with okra and cucumbers." I later found several references in books on Indian and Hispanic herbal medicine that indicated a tea made from steeping the dried seedpods is used as a headache medicine. I know modern cotton farmers that eat the seeds when they are white... hopping down off of their tractor if they spot a clump.
The Indians have developed cultivars of the plants over the centuries. The Oodham (Papago) of southern Arizona developed a variety with seedpods that have claws over fifteen inches long. They also developed a cultivar with four claws, but it fell out of favor when one of the families that preserved this cultivar had several sets of twins. The Oodham produce beautiful white baskets with black designs. The white of the basket is made from sun-bleached yucca leaves. Both the yucca and devil's claw is wrapped tightly around Nolina leaves. The devil's claw pods are pressed together to form balls about the size of basketballs and then buried to preserve the black color. When the basket is begun, the dried pods are soaked in water and the softened claws are split into narrow strips that are quite pliable (and feel like leather.)
Some archaeologists have thoroughly studied the history of Indian basketry. It is believed that the devil's claws were first used to make the base of baskets. Earlier baskets, without devil's claws, were made from willow or cottonwood. The sand around cooking fires shredded the soft wood over time. Bases made from the pods of the Devil's claws lasted much longer. The top edges of the baskets also frayed easily, so the rims also were constructed with devil's claw pods. Creative basketmakers then invented many striking designs on the sides of the baskets.
A yellow-flowered perennial species of devil's claw (P. althaeifolia) occasionally is found in West Texas. Its existence in the region may be because of basketweavers trading seeds, for it seems to be common only along the Colorado River on the western edge of Arizona. Another "imported" West Texas plant is Syrian Rue, a native of North Africa. A farmer who wished to produce the dye "Turkish Red" brought it to southeastern New Mexico in the early 1900s. For years, most West Texans believed it arrived on the bombers stored after World War II at the Rattlesnake Bomber Base at Pyote.
Tumbleweeds, salt cedar, and many other plants are now part of our landscape and each has a story of its introduction. (But mesquite is not an imported plant - it has always been here.)
Devil's claw plants have big leaves and often create a bush 3 feet tall and 3 feet across when plentiful rains occur. It is a "disturbed soil" plant, germinating in bare soil in draws and playas or in weedy cotton fields. The leaves have a very unpleasant smell (reminiscent of cat urine) and are very sticky to the touch, so grasshoppers or caterpillars rarely damage it. Despite the smell, some gardeners do use the plant as an ornamental, for the white blossoms with pink and yellow markings are big and bell-shaped. The cultivar with long claws can be purchased from Native Seeds Search, an Arizona non-profit originally started by Gary Nabhan to preserve the unique food and material plants of southwestern Indians and Hispanic settlers.
When the Devil's claw grabs you, it is trying to tell you its story.
History #2 Midland County"s last buffalo hunt
Joe S. McCombs killed 4,900 buffalo during the winter of 1877-78 along the head of the North Concho River, at Moss Creek Springs, and the big spring in present day Big Spring. Hundreds of other hunters had camps along the forks of the Concho River that year. In 1878-79 he moved west, to Mustang Springs, just a few miles northwest of present day Stanton. He killed less than a thousand buffalo. In 1881 cowboys found one buffalo cow in during a roundup that produced 10,000 cows in the range around Sweetwater. They roped the cow and branded it with all of the brands represented at the roundup. It was never seen again. The great herds were gone forever.
When I learned the above information in the 1983 West Texas Historical Association Yearbook, my imagination started percolating, and I created the following story of his last hunt…
"Boys, it's been a week since a buffalo wandered into Mustang Draw looking for water. All the hides of the ones we killed are dried and cured and today a freighter is supposed to come with a string of wagons to load them up and haul them east. We need to scatter - all of us need to ride in a different direction and look for the rainwater lakes and look for where the buffalo have gone." Joe looked at his three skinners and the young teen-aged roustabout that had begged to come along.
He shook his head and sighed. "None of you guys have much experience roaming these flat plains. You might get lost. I will draw you a map of the draws, the best that I know, but I haven't covered all of this country either. Mustang Draw is joined by another draw down south, and it splits into two a few miles upstream. In between the two forks are several salt lakes, which should be holding water. There are always much smaller clay bottom lakes, but unless that particular range has had recent rains, they may not have water. Don't go beyond the headwaters of the draws. There are 20 or 30 miles of dry before you reach the edge of the 'yarner' (the buffalo hunters' term for the Llano Estacado), and then you hit sand dunes where you might find water, but then it is another 10-30 miles or more to the Pecos River. You go too far and you will likely die of thirst."
Joe gestured up Mustang Draw. "About 10 miles upstream from here Mustang Draw splits. The North Fork is Mackenzie Draw. I don't think the colonel ever saw it, but one of his patrols named it after him. About 30 miles up, there is a big salt lake to the north of the draw - you might find it by looking for the cranes that spend the winter in it. If you find it, you will find a bunch of tipi poles on the north side in some rough country where there a bunch of cedars. Ol' Quanah was born there, and he was there last year looking for other Comanches that had left the reservation. I would be careful around there, just in case a few young Indians still are dreaming of the old days. Mackenzie Draw heads up in some in some sand dune country about 60 miles northwest."
He looked at the men. Nobody bothered to ask a question, which made him wonder if they would refuse to go alone out on the prairie. He continued, "The south fork goes west a few miles and splits again. The south fork of that goes about 60 miles. About 30 miles out there is a big salt lake south of the draw, and if you see cranes, follow them and check it out. People are calling that one Shafter Lake. The north fork goes northwest and splits into two or three draws. About 30-40 miles out, there are places in each of those draws where the Indians and Col. Shafter's black Seminole Indian scouts dug in the bottom of the draw and found water."
"As you are riding, look for signs of water. Look for plum thickets - that is a sure sign you can dig in the bottom of the draw and find water, especially if the bottom of the draw is sandy. Dig for water in the tight bends of the draw, if the ground is sandy. You mind find old scrapes the Indians dug, and if you do, dig a little upstream from the old scrapes. If you find tipi poles, dig there, too. Before you leave, we will fill up five or six buffalo stomachs with water for you to carry for the first day out. Give your horse water before you drink any. Fill the stomachs back up when you find water. If you find a rainwater lake, wade out into it and see how deep it is. If it is more than 3 feet deep, it might hold water most of the winter."
"If a blue norther hits, hole up. Find one of the densest little forests of hackberries or wild china and hunker down and wait the storm out. It will get warm again in a couple of days. You don't want to be caught out in the open. If the snow is falling you will lose your way if try to keep riding, and you will freeze to death because of the wind. Each one of you will take your buffalo robe so you can keep warm. If you see any wagon tracks in one of the draws, do not go up it. I know ol' George Causey is still hunting out of Yellowhouse Lake about 120 miles north of here, but I bet he has hit hard times, too. I think we have killed most of the buffalo - I don't think we will find many more, every again. The ones we are finding this year are the ones smart enough to run west during last year's hunt. The buffalo didn't normally go on the Yarner unless there was lots of rain. This year wasn't as dry as last year when Nolan got lost and had four men die, but it wasn't a wet year, not by a long shot."
The men did refuse to go alone, so Joe McCombs decided to take the outfit up Monahans Draw and take the south fork. They found Shafter Lake, alright, but no buffalo. They went up Mackenzie Draw, and found Cedar Lake, too, and found carcasses left behind by Causey. After that, McCombs called it quits.
grandparents and their influences...
My grandfather, Luther Williams, rode up to the stomp dance near Wewoka, Okla. late in the night. Folks had been drinking and singing for hours. As he arrived, a couple of Sac and Fox men with a long history of being involved with the same woman had a good fight and the crowd was laughing, taking bets. Luther was there to meet Isaac Payne, who had arrived from Mexico. The Paynes were one of the families that rode with Wildcat and John Horse back in the 1840s. Some of the Mascogos, the Seminole Blacks, had come back to Oklahoma after the Civil War, knowing they no longer would be hounded by runaway slave hunters. Many stayed in Mexico, however.
Luther's wife, Maynie, was the daughter of the trader who sold Seminole products to wider markets, and catered to their needs. Her father, Harry Brown, had been adopted by the Seminoles for his years of fair and honest dealings. Her mother's closest friend was the unrelated Alice Brown, the leader of the tribe at the time. Maynie's grandfather, Boston missionary John Lilley, had assisted the Seminole John Bemo -- who was educated in Boston after being a cabin boy on a trading vessel -- in establishing a school. The home church in Boston funded the school, which helped the just transplanted ex-Floridians develop skills in reading, writing, arithmetic and "righting" -- religious instruction in a private family story.
Luther tied his horse to a wagon wheel belonging to Charlie Wilson, one of the local Anglo ranchers who had married to a Seminole woman. He looked around for Isaac Payne. Part of the Payne family in Oklahoma had sent word to Fort Clark that one of matriarchs was dying. Isaac was one of the patriarchs of the Mascogos along the Mexican border. He had won a Medal of Honor saving Capt. Bullis' life after Col. Ranald Mackenzie hired many of the Mascogos to serve as scouts. Nowadays, some of the members of the Black Seminole Scouts (both active and retired) served as a dispatch service between ranchers, bankers, army officials and law enforcement. A nephew of Isaac, John, would become a renowned fighter in the exhaustive Villa years.
Luther was with a local Payne family member. The Paynes had been economically tied to Osceola's people back in Florida, and had prospered, having many children, who all came to Oklahoma and eventually far beyond. Samson Payne finished tying his horse and touched Luther's shoulder and pointedly glanced at a lean figure in a Seminole turban leaning up against a blackjack oak at the edge of the clearing. Half a dozen elder men and women were gathered there.
Samson pointed with his chin at some women cooking at some pots. Both filled up bowls and found a place to sit to watch the dancing and the rest of the going-ons. His mother-in-law wanted to see Isaac. The Mexican government was moving the Mascogo people from Nascimento to near Musquiz. Families had been raised in Nascimento, and many of their people were buried there. The Catholic Church even had built a chapel there, for future encouragement in replacing the peoples Gullah (African) mystical dreamweaving with a veneer of Christian indoctrination. People were contemplating moving to Oklahoma, upset their land had been taken away from them yet again. His mother-in-law wanted to hear how many might be coming, so she could ask her husband to buy enough supplies in case they arrived destitute.
Charlie Wilson dropped by, saying Bull Shannon of San Angelo was getting ready to go to Kansas City and start dickering for the highest price for a herd Charlie had wintered for him. Luther had a few head thrown in with Wilson and helped him keep an eye on the herd all winter, and soon would accompany the herd to the KC stockyards. Wilson agreed to give him some money so Maynie could come on the next passenger train after he left. It might be the best chance for a truly special honeymoon-like trip. They had been married a couple of years. Maynie had been a big help, riding her big horse, Ben, who would not let anybody else ride him. Being in love and having no babies taking his best girl away from him had been the happiest time of Luther's life. Things were about to change. Maynie had told him she was pregnant. The sale of Luther's cattle would allow them to add on to their house.
The stomp dance ended at daybreak. People headed home, back to milking cows, cutting wood, back to the everyday routine. Folks would move slow all day, all tuckered out, but for the most part it had been a great time. Folks from up and down Gar Creek and a half dozen valleys in every direction had exchanged news and socialized. After the sun had cleared the trees, Luther and Isaac were about the only ones left. Alice Brown rode up in a surrey (Luther had been the surrey driver for a Seminole woman with an Anglo husband when he was a young teenager.) Both men tightened the cinch on their saddles and slipped bridles on their horses, and swung up to follow, after exchanging brief polite greetings with Ms. Brown.
Parental influences
I learned my love of daytripping from my parents. Deborah's family took daytrips often as well. No wonder we like to wander about, enjoying our home bioregion. This fall has been a time of change for me, and a time of lessons that came realized with difficulty. I feel reborn.
Monday, I took a day off, and in the morning sat at a window facing the sun. The Manuel Rosales CD, "Herencia y tradicion," initiated the memories of my parents. As I listened and thought of my parents, a Cooper's hawk chased a white-winged dove into the giant turk's cap just to the east of our boudoir garden. The dove had been teetering on the wrought iron trellis next to a birdbath with a mosaic basin. Leaning this way and that, it calculated how to descend 10 inches to lip of the bath. As it made the decision to jump, the hawk struck, a half-second too late.
The hawk struck the wrought iron with closed talons and swooped into the chinaberry, where it sat, shaking its wings and flipping its tail, glaring this way and that. Hyper frustration and anger made it jittery. The dove, though, did not move from its hiding place until long after the hawk had gone on.
It walked with typical dove timidity, pecking at gravel for its crop. It entered the flower bed, and after fluffing its feathers, hid under the protection of the velvety red salvia grahamii and walled in by ice blue Abilene aster, the bird found a pool of sunlight to bask in and closed its eyes.
It has been five years since my parents died. I miss them. During the Sibley Nature Center's living history event "Viva El Llano Estacado" several people chatted with me about them. One gentleman said he wished he had a camera as he pointed out their names on a sign on the backstop of the baseball field across the street from the 1860s baseball game the buffalo soldiers from Fort Concho were playing. He remembered my father's 35 years of coaching youth baseball and my mother's many years of scorekeeping for the Tournament of Champions.
The sunlight came and went. A cold north wind brought series after series of low puffy clouds scudding in frothy waves. The bright red berries of the Hawthorne were unattended by the mockingbird who'd been defending the berries in Sunday's warmth. The bewick's wren, which has been inspecting the gardens recently, came to the protected corner, and perched on the head of a Virgin of the Guadalupe statue. It too, fluffed its feathers, and like the dove, basked in the sun.
My mother taught me about ecology. My father taught me about regional history. Both taught me appreciation of cultural diversity. I spent thousands of hours with her in the pastures of West Texas. I traveled thousands and thousands of miles criss-crossing the southwestern U.S. with both parents as they roamed about looking for endemic birds of the sky island mountains and riparian bosques and listening to Harold read about the places we were visiting.
As I sat lost in a memory of a trip to Mile-High Ranch in Ramsey Canyon in the Huachuca Mountains, a hummingbird (the first I had seen in a week) zipped up to the bottommost flower of the Graham's sage. Most hummers have gone south for the year. The whir of its wings disturbed a dove feather nestled in the snake herb and prairie zinnia - the hawk had hit the dove after all. The bill of the hummer was yellow with pollen. I had no idea of its species - it was green and beige, which made it an immature or female.
I like the tradition of building a display in the memory of passed loved ones. To celebrate the Day of the Dead is a good thing. To value what that person or persons taught you, to display a few items that most help you remember their personality, their joys, and their successes is truly good for the soul.
This year I selected a photograph of their youth. They are perched in a U.S. Army jeep at Williams Ranch just west of El Capitan in the Guadalupe Mountains, as they participated in a geological field trip during World War II. Forty-mph winds fill the air with dust from the salt flats to the west. My dad's curly thick hair stands up in a Mohawk. My mother is in pants, as always, and is the only woman on the field trip.
I also have one of their trip journals with the picture. It is opened to the following lines written by my father; "At 3 a.m. we were awakened by four young men. Parking for the night along a remote dirt road in a camper supposedly could result in encounters that could end badly, but they only asked if they could borrow our toolbox. They took it and three hours later, as the sun began cresting the Sangre de Christo mountains far to the east, returned with the tools and chorizo breakfast burritos they had cooked after fixing their sheep-shearing truck. They were descendants of one of de Onate's original settling families in 1598."
"As I chatted with the young men, Frances found a Williamson's sapsucker on its breeding territory in an isolated motte of aspen. These high Canjillon meadows are beautifully green. The valleys are still muddy from recently melted winter snow. We talked of horses for a few minutes after their discovering my ranching heritage."
As I sat with my parents' journals and old black-and-white photograph albums, flipping through pages, the hummingbird returned again and again to the branches of the Hawthorne. A queen butterfly came to the Abilene asters, staying for 30 minutes with a few side sorties here and there. The clouds thinned until the sun was out three times as much as before.
Yes, I miss Harold and Frances Williams. My life is their gift to me -- not only my existence, but what I love. Thank you, dear parents.
images of a childhood...exploring the wild and a multigenerational family
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)