Monday, June 19, 2017

magoosh the Lipan

I have previously written of Magoosh, a roadrunner was named for a man who visited here many times on his travels from Central Texas to the mountains of New Mexico.
           Once when Magoosh was in his mid-40's, he visited here to hunt buffalo. A week before arriving here, he and a few others visited the Border Survey wagon train of Charles Bartlett.
           In drier years, buffalo drifted off the southern Llano Estacado at the Big Spring and meandered down the Colorado watershed to its confluence with the Concho. But that year, fall rains filled the local playas and buffalo could be found grazing in scattered bands throughout the area. Magoosh chose the large playa southeast of present-day Midland for his hunting grounds. He camped far from the playa, so as not to disrupt the natural rhythms of the buffalo. To the west lay the grazing grounds of pronghorn. 
           At his campsite, two large hackberries with ground-sweeping branches shaded a shallow rain-water pool. To the north was a ridge that overlooked the present day site of Midland. In rainy spells, sheetwash was funneled to the hackberry pool. Today, tobosa grass grows among mesquite at the site, but back then the hackberries were surrounded by alkali sacaton, a waist tall pampas grass look-alike. The soil there is dark gray Midessa clay loam and both sets of plants are associated with that soil type. No hackberries can be found at the site today and the rainwater pool now covers several acres, since buffalo no longer wallow and deepen the catchment area.
           Four other people accompanied Magoosh and his wife. They slept under the hackberries. If they killed buffalo, the meat could be hung to dry in the trees, which also served to hide the virtually smokeless buffalo dung campfire of the previous evening. A few miles to the east were 15 square miles of shinoak-covered sand dunes, a maze that offered a retreat if unwelcome visitors came too close. Water could be dug out of the mostly wooded draw on the north side of the dunes.
           "When arriving at a hunting range, act like the shiest deer," Magoosh told his companions. The two young couples were proud to be traveling with Magoosh to procure supplies for the folks just arriving at the wintering camp down in the Pecos canyons. Old people awaited the luxuries provided by buffalo, which they had not been afforded in several years, because of the treachery of Bigfoot Wallace and other settlers on their old grounds along the Nueces.
           Magoosh knew the Comanches were busy at their fall camp at the Big Spring, with dozen of hunters harvesting tons of meat to supply the elderly people and children while the men raided deep into Mexico. He had originally headed west, but ran into Ciboleros around the Mustang Springs. He knew the leader, but did not want to infringe upon their hunting grounds. A camp of Mostenas utilized Mustang Ponds, so Magoosh headed for the playa further south and found the two hackberries near the ridge.
           "Wake up!" hissed a voice in Spanish. "All you baghairs speak Spanish, so you know what I am saying."
           Magoosh wore his hair short on one side and long on the other. The long side was never cut, but was often coiled, wrapped and hung at the name of his neck. Magoosh felt a knife at this throat and his blood welling.
           "Listen! I could have killed all of you but my helper told me to introduce myself and go. I am Mow-way, and we will meet again when I have a son with wife and child. I was on the ridge when you came, and I was told you are part of the vision of my spirit quest. My helper said you would help me in the future. Remember my name!" To the south and southwest of Midland is a large area usually without surface water. Once upon a time, it was an empty quarter, perfect for vision quests during four-day fasts.
           The young Comanche quickly disappeared through the low hanging branches of the hackberries. The other members of his group had awakened but remained motionless at the wave of Magoosh's hand. Odd things often happened around Magoosh; it was if his presence broke old balance, the resulting upset rippling through everyday reality. And, he always seemed to know the way to a new balance, leading without seeming conscious of his role.
           Near daybreak, low dark clouds thickened and fell. Dawn brought thick fog, drenched grass, and the further lowering of the hackberry branches with the weight of the fog-water. A cow buffalo and yearling calf came silently out of the fog and made their way to the pool. Magoosh, the only one awake, grabbed his bow and with two quick shots sent the dying buffalo running back into the fog. Their grunts and thumping hooves awoke the others in time to see Magoosh trotting around the pool. By the time they had stood and stretched and rubbed their eyes he had returned. In his hands were two large pink tongues -- for breakfast, of course.
           Three hours later, the buffalo had been completely butchered by the women. Magoosh instructed them to leave some of the guts at the butchering. At midday, the fog lifted and all could see a large wolf sniffing at the morsels. The wolf became aware of their watching. He sat down and stared at each one in turn, lastly at Magoosh. After two full minutes of staring at Magoosh, he stood, stretched, yawned and wagged his tail. He then trotted to the south, where now could be heard the deep, shaking rumble of buffalo running.
           Anyone and everyone is a storyteller. We all communicate through stories. The specific information  comes from both reading and researching publications about the Llano Estacado and from shared oral stories. To create a more complete regional mythology -- roughneck and oil-field stories, cowboy, ghost town, cotton farming, and hunting stories should be told along with such historical and natural history stories.  Stories of adaptation to the rigors of life on the Llano Estacado by members of every ethnic group that has settled here should also be gathered and shared as well.
           When a Navajo travels within the four mountains of his homeland, there is always a landmark visible that has a story. Stories both pass on knowledge of the land and animals, and also impart a shared world view. Character traits that are respected by a given society appear in each of its stories. Gary Barsho wrote a book about a group of Apaches who chasten a wayward tribal member by merely saying the name of a landmark where a tribal member or culture hero had acted outside of the best interests of the tribe. The errant one remembers the story of the landmark and realizes he and she has been acting in an inappropriate manner. Because of the transience of our society, we can never hope to approach this level of sophistication, but we should tell the stories of our homelands. It is essential for the health of our society.

Monday, June 12, 2017

magoosh and the lion

I have written of Magoosh before – a Lipan Apache born and raised along the Balcones Escarpment near San Antonio, then lived on the Nueces, and later near Nasciemento, Mexico, and finally dying on the Mescalero Reservation. In August of 1875 some rangers caught up to him and some other Apaches near Big Lake. After one or two of his fellow tribesmen had been killed, the rest scattered to meet up again later.

What follows is a reconstruction of Magoosh’s personal journey before he arrived at the meeting place – the little waterhole north of Castle Gap that Crane historian Joe Allen found by retracing the daily report of an Army patrol. When Magoosh skedaddled, he had gone north, hoping that the rangers would follow. He knew of very little water past the last draw filled with junipers (present day Centralia Draw.) If they would follow him beyond there he would pull them into the Lacy Draw region (near present day Garden City) and then hide the tracks of his horse the best he could and slip off to the west where the southernmost salt playas are (north of present day Midkiff.)

They did not follow – the Ranger Captain D.W. Roberts did not want to chance it. When the two met many years later it was not a particularly friendly meeting – Roberts would not shake his hand. He remembered Magoosh as a treacherous renegade who would not “stay put” on a reservation. Magoosh traveled quite a bit in those days, trying to convince more of his people still living in Mexico to move to the reservation in New Mexico. 

On this particular trip the group had decided to kidnap the pubescent German immigrants Willie Lehmann and his brother. The brother got away but Willie did not – in fact, Willie hid from the rangers during the brief attack and later traveled alone to the meeting place, as well. Willie believed all of his relatives dead, didn’t speak English, and was confused about what he was supposed to do and was just “going along” with everything. Carnoviste, the party’s captain, had formed a bond with him. Chiwat liked the kid, too and Chiwat was Magoosh’s acolyte as a shaman.   

Magoosh stopped on the north side of Centralia Draw to wait for the Rangers to catch up. They didn’t ever show up, so he dropped back down in the draw later that night, and stole a fresh horse from the stage station in the quietest hours of the night, when the dogs were sleeping. Magoosh, a man in his late fifties, had the most amazing skills of being “invisible.” When he wanted to have it happen, his presence was not “remarked upon” by the animals and birds that usually react to a human that is too close – no squawks or barks of surprise.

He reached a salt lake north of present-day Midkiff about noon. In a little rocky draw on its southeast corner was a spring. It was a blistering hot day, so Magoosh decided to rest until at least dark, and maybe even well into the night – he would just see how he felt. The watershed of the playa had received an isolated thunderstorm a week before, so about half of the floor of the lakebed had a skim of water on it. He could see hundreds of migrating sandpipers poking around in the mud.

After he and his horse felt saturated, and the horse had rolled a few times in the saltgrass, Magoosh led it to the big bluff on the south side of the lake. Above him was thirty or forty feet of chalky clay soil – and since when it erodes the substrate “melts” from saturation, little caves, strange hoodoo spires capped by big clumps of Alkali Sacaton, saltbush, and pickleweed made the surroundings just a little bizarre.

Magoosh chose a fine spot with a carpet of saltgrass and pulled out a stake out of his roll of blankets, pounded the stake in the ground, and tied the horse to it. He looked out across the water. Heat waves coming off of the flats and the water made the distant sandpipers wink in and out of view. He made a tunnel with both fists and looked through them – it helps with long distance viewing, you know. After isolating an upside down mirage image of a blacknecked stilt with its red legs and feet running on the sky, he yawned and stretched out. Within minutes he was asleep. 

Near sundown, and in a cave on the bluff to the northeast, another creature woke up. When it spotted Magoosh’s horse, it began to feel a hunger pang. As the sun set, the mountain lion gazed across the playa, contemplating its chances. Normally, when the lion stopped on his hunting circuit at the playa, he could find a band of wild horses and several small herds of pronghorn coming in daily to water at the spring. None had come all day, not even before Magoosh arrived. The lion had arrived late in the night and had headed directly to the cave after getting a drink.

 After dark, the cougar jumped from ledge to ledge to the top of the bluff and headed north to the top of the ridge above the playa. About half way up, he found the reason game had not come – he sniffed at the base of a big old mesquite (part of its trunk is in the Sibley Nature Center) and investigated the scent of three young lions just weaned and still traveling together. He could detect in the smell of the urine that they were hungry. The three had probably tried to make a kill and failed, spooking the game.

With that knowledge, he set out an easy lope around the playa, covering the two miles in just a few minutes. He eased along the bluff above Magoosh and the horse, analyzing the situation, plotting out how to kill the horse. The heat from the playa still radiated up and away, out of the basin of the salt lake, so the horse could not smell him.

Magoosh awoke while the lion was still thinking. It might have been a dream that filled him with a need to be on his way, or it might have been the fact that Magoosh admired mountain lions, wore a necklace of lion teeth, kept his arrows in a lionskin quiver and just woke up knowing what was happening. Without wasted movement he rolled up the blanket he’d been sleeping on, yanked the stake out of the ground and swung up on the horse in less than a minute and was kicking it into a trot.

The lion watched Magoosh ride off. It sat back on its haunches and screamed its otherworldly cry, which echoed back and forth across the playa.  

       



test on west texas.... with answers

1.     The land form that we reside on is;   c                                                                                                                a. Permian Basin  b. High Plains c. Llano Estacado d. west Texas
2.     We live on the drainage of the;     d                                                                                                                       a. Pecos River b. Rio Grande River c. Brazos River d. Colorado River
3.     We live in a;         d                                                                                              a. desert b. semi-arid grassland c. brushland d. semi-arid grassland turned semi-arid brushland
4.     Until the 1870’s millions of what animal lived here; a, b, c                                            a. buffalo b. pronghorn c. prairie dogs d. cows
5.     What groups of Hispanics visited here from the 1650’s until the 1870’s;  a,b, d, e                        a. Ciboleros b. Comancheros c. Conquistadores d. pastores e. mesteneros
6.     Put the native Americans that visited here in historical order;     b,a,c                                       a. Apaches b. Jumanos c. Comanches and Kiowas
7.     The first U.S. Army commander that explored in Midland County is;    c                              a. Colonel McKenzie b. Colonel Grierson c. Captain Marcy d. Lieutenant Nolan
8.     To fight the Indians, the Army relied on what groups of scouts; a,b,c,d                                                  a. Tonkawa Indians b. Delaware Indians c. Lipan Apache Indians d. Seminole-Negroes
9.     The first roads here were b                                                                                  a. “buffalo bone roads” b. Comanchero trails c. army trails d.  ranch supply roads
10.  What invention allowed settlement of this area;   a                                                                a. windmills b. railroads c. oil wells d. cars
11.  The first barbed wire fences here were;       a                                                                            a. drift fences b. enclosed farms c. enclosed ranches d. enclosed towns
12.  Droughts of several years duration occur here every;  c                                        a. fifty years b. ten years c. twenty years d. forty years
13.  Our rainiest months are;   a                                                                                  a. May and September b. June and July c. October and November d. August and September
14.  Sandhill cranes come here every;  b                                                                                    a. spring b. fall c. summer d. winter
15.  Put the progression of spring wildflowers in order;        d,c,a,b                                           a. huisache daisy b. goldenwave daisy c. bladderpod d. draba
16.  The black witch moths come through this area in;  c                                                   a. April b. December c. July d. May
17.  The big dog day cicadas;  b                                                                                  a. were always here b. came with elms in the 1920’s c. came with mulberries in the 1950’s d. came with live oaks in the 1970’s
18.  A hundred years ago 40 species of birds nested here, now how many species have been recorded;  b                                                                                                             a. 20 species b. 80 species c. 50 species d. 30 species
19.  How many species of foxes live here;       c                                                                            a. 1 b. 7 c. 4 d. 2
20.  What are our native species of trees in Midland County;   a,b,c,d                                             a. juniper(cedar) b. soapberry c. hackberry d. shinnery
21.  Mesquite is the most common shrub here, and it;  c                                                             a. came with Spanish cows b. came with Spanish sheep c. has always been here        d.  was planted here by Indians for food
22.  Which of the following animals emigrated here in the last 40 years;      a,b,c,d             a. ringtail b. javelina c. mountain lion d. porcupine
23.  Which of the following birds emigrated here in the last 40 years; a,b,c                                    a. white-winged dove b. blue jay c. great-tailed grackles d. mockingbird
24.  Horny toads shoot blood from;     b                                                                                    a. their mouth b. right above their eyes c. their horns d. their eyes
25.  Which species of rattlesnake live in Midland County;   b,c,d                                              a. Mojave rattler b. Massassauga rattler c. diamondback rattler d. prairie rattler

                                               
            My role in life has been to help people learn about the local flora and fauna, and the local history and geography, as a propenent of place-based education. Knowing about one’s own bioregion is truly the deepest roots of patriotism.
Everyone should be intimately familiar with his or her environment. A person learns to be proud of their homeland by connecting with its history and the local natural world. We are a "LLANERO”, a citizen of our home ecoregion, the Llano Estacado. A Llanero is familiar with the stories, history, and folktales of the Llano Estacado, as well as the natural history. All regional residents should know what Indian tribes lived here, and how they lived, as part of knowing the ecological history of the area. A Llanero also knows the stories of the settlement by people of all cultures.
Can you name 200 species of local animals, insects, and plants? Can you name 50 geographical places within 100 miles? Can you write a full page on that many organisms? Can you tell the period in the "natural calendar" in which they are active? Can you tell how each interacts with others? Can you tell which habitat they prefer? I believe everyone should be able to do that, no matter where they live!


Wednesday, June 7, 2017

pop quiz on west texas

1.      Winter storms on the Llano Estacado are called? A. howling westerlies B. blue northers C. banshees of the baldies D. scuzzy sandstorms
2.      John Bullis led which group?  A. Lipan scouts  B. Tonkawa scouts C. Seminole Negro scouts D. Texas Rangers
3.      The Indian tribe that preserved the customs of the sweat lodge is? A.  Apache B. Cherokee C. Lakota Souix D. Pawnee
4.      Dodder is a wildflower that looks like? A. a clump of yellow string B. a mass of green thorns around a waxy flower C. a yellow daisy D. a brillo pad
5.      Cotton picking is? A. picking the flowers B. removing the boll of cotton at the stem C. removing the lint from the boll D. weeding a cotton field
6.      Endemic plants are A. plants that only live in one small area of the world B. plants that carry disease C. plants with medicinal uses D. are plants used by animals
7.      The river that runs through Coke County is? A. Brazos B. Concho C. Colorado D. Pecos
8.      The camps of the Comanche Indians were usually found? A. on the west side of the Llano Estacado B. on the Pecos River C. On the San Saba River D. along the eastern side of the Llano Estacado, below the caprock
9.      The Llano Estacado became the world’s most prolific cotton producing region in? A.1937 B. 1957 C. 1947 D. 1967
10.   The Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute’s arboretum is? A. in Chihuahua Mexico B. in Alpine C. in Presidio  D. in between Fort Davis and Alpine
11.   German settlers created orderly towns throughout Texas, and the nearest to Midland is                        A. Fredericksburg B. Nazareth C. Windthorst D. New Braunfels
12.   At the Davis Mountains State Park, a person can see? A. Pinetrees and nightjars B. Cactus and cactus wrens C. Oak trees and phainopeplas D. Mesquite trees and painted buntings
13.   Which institution of higher learning “southwest collections” is producing a photographic exhibit of the Llano Estacado? A. Angelo State? B. UTPB? C. Texas Tech D. College of the Southwest in Hobbs
14.   Chihuahuan ravens are? A. the noisy black birds with long tails B. the big black birds that most commonly perch on telephone poles to the northwest of Midland C. the small black birds that whirl in flocks of 10,000 around livestock feeding areas D. the black birds that get iridescent speckles on their chest in their breeding plumages
15.   Landfarms are places where?  A. road materials are dug out of the ground B. where topsoil is produced for sale C. organic material recycling and composting facilities D. where petroleum or salt contaminated soil is remediated        
16.   The wonderful drought adapted ornamental plants Bouvardia and esparanza are found growing wild in which mountain range? A. Davis Mountains B. Guadalupe Mountains C. Delaware Mountains D. Sacramento Mountains
17.    The South Plains Wildlife Rehabilitation Center is in? A. Midland B. Odessa C. San Angelo D. Lubbock
18.   Halophytic and gypsophilic plants grow in? A. sanddunes B. draw bottoms C. clay playa basins D. salt playa basins
19.   Killdeer and nighthawks are among the creatures that prefer the habitat of? A. the urban forest B. oil well pads C. the pocket forests of the Llano Estacado draws D. Mesquite brushland
20.   Frank Buckalew was a captive in 1866 of which Indian tribe? A. Kickapoo B. Comanche C. Tonkawa D. Lipan Apache
21.   Lubbock Lake Landmark preserves? A. the site of the Yellowhouse Canyon fight between buffalo hunters and Comanches B. Francisco Coronado’s winter camp in 1541 C. fossils of Triassic age dinosaurs D. fossils of Pleistocene animals
22.   Caprylic acid is produced by? A. stink beetles B. oak leaves C. ants D. skunks
23.   In the Monahans State Park a person can find? A. gum bumelia trees B. pinyon pine C. willow trees  D. live oaks
24.   The Texon Scar is? A. where a meteorite hit B. a practice bombing range of World War II C. where windblown sand collected during the Pleistocene D. where salt water from early oil wells ruined land
25.   Which of the following does not happen after a rainstorm in west Texas? A. red rainbugs walk on the ground B. millipedes come out of ant holes C. termites swarm by the billion D. lady bugs appear by the thousands
26.   Jane Gilmore Rushing wrote books about life near? A. Snyder B. Lubbock C. Monahans D. Pecos
27.   Ethie Eagleton started which town’s historical museum? A. Stanton B. Midland C. O’Donnell            D. McCamey
28.   The individual that serves as the sentinel in a coterie of prairie dogs is?  A. the oldest male B. the oldest female C. the female with the most babies D. a female without babies
29.   Select the one predator of the following that does not attack bird nests in trees? A. Kingsnakes B. Gray foxes C. Grackles D.  Red foxes
30.   Which is the improper translation of the following Spanish words? A. Trompillo – purple nightshade B. Popotillo – Mormon tea C. Mimbres -- mesquite D. Alamo -- cottonwood
31.   Lagunas Sabinas is the Comanchero name for which salt lake? A. Shafter Lake B. Tahoka Lake         C. Pleasure Lake D. Cedar Lake
32.   Gomez Peak at the northern end of the Davis Mountains was named for? A. the first person to dig irrigation canals along the Pecos River B. a Texas Ranger C. a Mescalero Apache chief D. the first Hispanic member of the Texas State Legislature
33.   What business establishment in Girvin, Texas was written about in Texas Monthly? A. the new post office B. the old school that is now a community center C. the power plant D. the social club
34.   Muchaque Peak is near ? A. a favorite winter camp of Quanah Parker B. on the famous black rancher 80 John Wallace’s land C. Horsehead Crossing D. Rath City – a buffalo hunter’s depot in the 1870’s
35.   The name of the railroad built by Andrew Fasken was? A. The Midland-Hobbs Railway B. Midland and Northwestern Railroad C. Texas and New Mexico Railroad D. Midland to Smackover Railroad
36.   The best wildflower viewing area in Texas this spring was? A. near Llano B. near Austin C. at the junction of 1788 and SH 176 in Andrews county D. near Kerrville

37.   Which of the following  is not one of the reasons Hispanic settlers came to west Texas before 1940?   A. to build railroads B. to work in cotton fields C. to work in the oilfield D. to build the brick streets of the towns of the region    

Monday, June 5, 2017

PLACES LEFT UNFINISHED AT THE TIME OF CREATION -- JOHN PHILLIP SANTOS


            
           There are a number of contemporary books available that can enrich our awareness of the history and culture of our homeland, the Llano Estacado.  Places Left Unfinished At The Time of Creation (first published in 1999) is one such book.  In relating the stories of his extended family on both sides of the political and physical border of the Rio Grande, author John Phillip Santos tells of the struggles of immigration, assimilation, and pursuit of the American dream.  Evoking the roots of his ranchero background, Santos’ stories create a highly detailed mural in which new connections are made with every viewing. 
Until recent years, Hispanics have been greatly under‑represented in English print.  Texas has a long history of conflict between Anglo and Hispanic members of the community.  Anglo culture of the last 150 years has often been cruel in its drive to establish dominance over the multicultural mestizo traditions of Aztlan (a Nahuatl term meaning Paradise, which is often used in Chicano folklore to describe that portion of Mexico that was taken over by the United States after the Mexican-American War of 1846).  As this country matures and learns to respect other traditions, a number of voices have begun to speak out with pride.
Santos’ "magical realism" style (reminiscent of Gabriel Garcia Marquez’ One Hundred Years of Solitude) transports the reader to "el inframundo" -- that mystical limbo in which all that has been forgotten lives on in the subconscious of culture.  According to Santos, "The ranchero life is as old as the New World itself.  Out of its origins in the fierce horsemanship of the EspaƱoles, and the Indians' knowledge of the terrain, a rich culture emerged, built with mesquite, leather, rope, corrugated tin, and an infinitude of barbed wire.”
           Along with Santos’ work, a substantial body of literature by Hispanic residents of the southwest border region of the United States has arisen to express the viewpoint of the disenfranchised, indigenous peoples of this country.  Gloria Anzuldua’s fiercely defiant Borderlands in which the concept of "borders” (which are set up to “...distinguish us from them”) is compared to “borderlands” (“…a vague undetermined place created by the emotional residue of an unnatural boundary…which can be either psychological or rhetorical in nature…”), and Aristeo Brito’s The Devil In Texas” (which describes modern‑day tensions in Presidio), though coming from a different perspective, offer a hope similar to that of Rudolfo Anaya's wonderful stories of the Llano Estacado to go beyond the mere cataloguing of tragedies and suffering.
As Santos says, "The strength of our democracy will rest on our collective understanding of the innate worth of each other's oldest stories. This is our true manifest destiny."




Friday, May 26, 2017

ciboleros

Alvina cracked her whip over the head of the horses pulling the wagon she drove for Don Moises Chavez. The wagon train was underway, headed for the Llano Estacado. It was boom-time for residents of the upper Pecos River Valley. Los Americanos had taken over twenty years before, establishing Fort Bascom up on the Canadian River. As Alvina hollered at her horses, the Civil War was raging in the eastern United States. Some of the officers sent to lead the troops in defending “the territories” were the incompetent, untrustworthy, and shirkers that could not perform on the battlefield.

Fort Bascom had some of the worst of the Union Army. Captain Bergmann, and Lieutenants Healy, Jennings, Wood, and Vose began manipulating the Comancheros and Ciboleros that ventured out on to the plains, making money “hand over fist” dealing in buffalo hides, stolen Texas cattle, liquor, and even the “captive” trade – ransoming Confederate Texas kids from the Comanches. After two centuries of living on the barter system, hard cash had a magnetic appeal to the Pecos Valley folks. Don Moises had upgraded from carretas (wooden carts) to wagons with his growing annual profits.

Everybody laughed at Alvina’s husband – he always found an excuse to not go on the annual buffalo hunt. She desperately wanted the meat, hides and tallow for her kids – children of los ciboleros have a better life. Marquitos had been a bad choice for a husband – the only boy in a family of girls and doted upon.

“I will do it if you won’t,” she had shouted at Marquitos. She marched down to where Don Moises had been readying the expedition – and she had been in luck.  Pedro de Urdemales had broken his leg and his wagon needed a driver. Don Moises first said no – it had to be a man with courage, not a woman, but Alvina had been insistent, and finally grabbed Pedro’s horses and hitched them to the wagon. El Cacahuate and Senor Cantinflas were tricky horses, fractious and prone to getting into unpredictable and comedic situations (comedic when it was all over with.) They had obeyed her every command, and when Don Moises saw that… well, he had to say okay. Alvina left her children with her widowed mother.

The wagon train moved south of Puerto de Luna on the west side of the Pecos and made the crossing where the Maxwell hacienda and trading post offered a chance to stock up on cheap trade goods for the Comanches. They might or might not run into members of Mow-way’s band.  El Pelado, the guide, was kin by marriage to one of his wives. El Pelado was a strange character. He had lived as a Comanche for years, but when cholera swept the camp and his kids died, his wife (a sister of one of Mow-way’s wives) had gone crazy. “You brought me misery! It would have been better if we had not had kids. Go away!” He came to Puerto de Luna, where he had been born. He lived alone and spent most of his time herding sheep far from any one else.

El Pelado had told Don Moises that big thunderstorms had been forming almost daily down toward the sandy Los Medanos region. The playa lakes would be full south of the trail to Muchaque, and buffalo drifted towards the big thunderclouds, knowing grass would be green when they got to where it had rained. El Pelado mocked anyone in which he detected officious, arrogant or presumptive behavior, saying the most outlandish things. Don Moises knew his worth, and despite his irreverent and often caustic repartee, knew that they would be going where few other Comancheros and Ciboleros go, where the hunting might be good.

El Pelado took a liking to Alvina. “You do the unexpected, you think for yourself.” He appointed himself brown round and white flat (dung) and wood gatherer for her nightly cookfire. He unexpectedly riding up now and then and chucking a sackful of the precious material on to the wagon as they traveled along. “Hijita, I love your hot panocha (mush of ground up sprouted grains ;). You know the herbs of the field so well – your cooking is such a pleasure!”

After a week and a half on the trail, El Pelado told Alvina, “Tomorrow we scratch la ceja” (literally “the eyebrow,” for the llano was for days a dark line on the eastern horizon as they traveled) “and venture up on top of the Llano. Things will not be what they seem. It is a land of mirage, a land of subtlety. There will be lakes where you don’t expect them, and the lakes that you see for hours will not be there. Most of the time the area south of the Valle de Simanola is antelope range. We will feast well tomorrow night!”

The next day El Pelado rode off away from the wagon train. About a mile away, he dismounted, and crawled on his belly, then started waving white cloth on a yucca stalk. By the time the wagon train had gone a mile, his rifle spoke once. In another 20 minutes he came back with the gutted and bled carcass. Everybody got a piece of fresh meat that night while enjoying a musical performance by El Cuate. The best of the ciboleros that did the actual killing of the buffalo, El Cuate was also a talented minstrel.

He sung a sad corrido he had composed about Manuel Maes, who had lost his life last year when his new horse shied as he prepared to jab the 12 foot lance into a buffalo. The blade hit a shoulder bone and like a chain reaction, the butt of his lance had been jammed hard into his belly and up under his ribcage at the solar plexus. “Caballo alazan tostado, que tu la muerta me dites en este llano estacado -- vienes a hacer calavera – Oh, my sorrel horse, will you deliver death to me on the llano estacado – you come to make me a skeleton!”

El Cuate was the most flamboyant of the cibolero hunters. Like most, he wore leather trousers and jacket, but his had embossed designs and bead work. His flat straw hats had several colors of ribbons along the sweatband. His carcage (quiver of bow and arrows) was of white buffalo hide first carried by his French-Comanche grandfather. His 12 foot long lance was in a case suspended from the pommel of the saddle and anchored to the girths. All around the scabbard for the lance were more dancing ribbons. Shiny tin milagros set into the leather twinkled in the sun. His new American rifle was suspended in a similar fashion at his other knee.

In another week they reached a base camp at Lagunas Sabinas (present day Cedar Lake near Seagraves.) El Pelado cautioned the members of the wagon train not to use the dozens of “abandoned” tipi poles as firewood. “This is the birthplace to an up and coming leader of the Comanches – a half-Anglo hombre by the name of Quanah. He has gotten a strong reputation, never losing a man on a raid, and bringing back honor and goods for everyone. Mow-way is his mentor. He listens to a dreamer by the name of Isa-tai, who sees the Comanche living free forever on and around the Llano. Most of them are probably over at Muchaque, hunting for winter meat at the headwaters of the Rio Colorado. Their presence there will increase the numbers of buffalo here.”

In the morning three bands of buffalo came to the playa for water. After watching the behavior of the first two groups, the ciboleros gathered the 70 or so buffalo of the third group into a corrida bunched tightly together, causing the running herd to jostle together and slow down. The ciboleros took turns dashing to the edge of the herd and lancing or sending arrows into the flanks of the fattest cows. El Cuate lanced two, sent five tumbling with arrows, and killed yet another with his rifle –killing twice as many as any other ciboleros.

Alvina became one of his skinners. She quickly learned how to slice the meat into tasajo – long strips of meat that dried on racks as the hunting continued for two weeks. Her culinary skills enhanced by her herbal knowledge made her a popular figure in camp.  During a feast on the last night before the ciboleros headed for home she told El Pelado, “When I get home, I will place Marquitos’ belongings outside the door.” She paused and then asked, “You think he will understand the significance of that Comanche custom?”

When they returned home, he did understand that she was divorcing him. Marquitos killed Alvina, screaming as he stabbed her that she had shamed him by breaking the laws of his Penitente morada. He then ran away across the Pecos to Alamogordo Creek near the llano. El Pelado and El Cuate followed, and caught him. They hung Marquitos to the tallest cottonwood in the bosque along the only running water in that valley. El Pelado took her children and their grandmother far away, and cared for them as his own. 


Wednesday, May 24, 2017

descansos

          Someone vandalized a descanso on Highway 80 west of Midland. Descansos are a familiar sight on the roads of west Texas, as they are in almost every other state. The tradition of placing memorials at the site of someone’s death is centuries old and not culture-specific.  Roadside memorials can be found in Egypt, Germany, Ireland, Australia, Brazil, Greece, and many other countries.  Descansos proclaim to the world that the deceased deserves to be remembered, and that the victim’s passing will not be unnoticed.
            For many people, a site takes on a sacred quality once human blood has been spilled. The spontaneous memorials that appeared at Ground Zero in New York or the federal building in Oklahoma City are examples in a grand scale of the human urge to commemorate tragedy. The act of leaving an offering helps the mourner to process their personal reactions to death.
            Some writers believe the tradition has its roots in the crusades of the middle ages. The graves of soldiers that died along the way to the Holy Lands were marked, and on their return, the crusaders would refurbish the graves and pray for their souls.  In colonial times, conquistadors and emigrants often died from sickness and Indian attack. The dead had to be buried where they died. Travelers could not return the body to the sanctified ground of a graveyard.
            According to Rudolfo Anaya in “Descansos: An Interrupted Journey,” the term descanso originated in northern New Mexico during the 1600’s.  Anaya, one of the best ever writers born on or near the Llano Estacado, says that the first descansos were resting places where those who carried the coffin from the church to the graveyard paused to rest. Led by a priest, and followed by women dressed in mourning black, four to six men would carry the coffin. When they rested, the priest prayed, the women wailed, and all contemplated the effects of death upon others. Someone would break a juniper sprig and stick it into the ground to mark the spot. Others would fashion a rough cross of pinyon wood and plant it in the ground. With time, these resting places, used many times, would become an altar for every funeral procession.
            Descansos remind travelers to stop and say a sudario (prayer for the dead) for the souls in purgatory. Descansos are the beads, and the road is the rosary. For some, a cross must be erected on the spot where a person dies, where the soul leaves the body, or otherwise the soul will not be able to rest and will wander aimlessly, haunting those whose duty it was to put up the cross.
            Some descansos are merely piles of rock, others a cross adorned with plastic flowers. Others feature a concrete marker. Some are built from the wreckage of the car in which the victim was killed. Water bottles are frequently placed next to the cross as well. I have seen descansos ornamented as graves are during “El Dia de los Muertos,” with food, wreaths of marigolds, and candles. The descansos are often well tended, with family members coming and cutting weeds, arranging rocks, adding flowers, religious figures and more. Descansos are not only reminders of a journey never completed, but also a form of folk art. They are created and maintained with love.
            Although descansos are expressions of private grief, they have a public aspect. They always face the highway, to be seen by passing strangers. Their emotional power calls out to travelers. They are reminders for motorists to drive safely, to never leave the house without kissing loved ones goodbye, and to not leave angry.
            Roadside memorials are not without controversy. In Florida a disc jockey decided that local descansos were tacky, macabre, and nasty. He encouraged listeners to uproot the memorials and bring them to the station to be trashed. North Carolina recently passed a law banning them. In Colorado, an atheist brought suit, claiming that public property was being used to endorse religion. He told the state troopers that arrested him late at night with a pickup full of flowers and crosses that he was “cleaning up the interstate of discarded refuse.”
            Most states protect the right of citizens to erect descansos. In New Mexico they are respected as “traditional cultural properties.” In West Virginia, the memorial can remain if the people that erect the memorials register them with the state. In Arizona in the 1940’s and 1950’s, the state Highway Patrol erected crosses to mark the location of traffic fatalities. In Montana, the American Legion Highway White Cross Program was launched in 1953. In these states, construction crews will carefully preserve the sites while road maintenance is done. As long as the memorials do not cause traffic hazards, state employees leave them alone. As “traditional cultural properties,” descansos can be considered protected resources and eligible for the National Register of Historic Sites.
            In Texas, various local chapters of Mothers Against Drunk Driving erect markers for the victims of drunk driving. The state of California does the same for similar victims. The driver of the car that caused the death must put up the descanso. The community of Alton, Texas erected a memorial for 21 schoolchildren that died when their bus plunged into a water-filled pit beside the road. In Florida the Department of Transportation will erect a marker with the words “Drive Safely” and the name of the deceased.      
            The American Friends Service Committee has begun an “Adopt a Cross” project in Tijuana to commemorate all those that have died during attempts to enter the United States. Yearly averages of 320 mojados or alambristas die in boxcars, semi-truck trailers, and in the desert heat during long illegal treks to find jobs. During the 50th anniverasary of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, a Christmas posada procession occurred there, with the names of the dead called out in witness.
            Que descansen en paz. May they rest in peace in their interrupted journey.